Tucked away in the emerald hills, Kandy was the last stronghold of the Sri Lankan kings. Its centrepiece is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which houses a relic of the Buddha. The city feels different from the dry plains, cooler, mistier and deeply spiritual. If you visit during the evening Thewava (ceremony), the sound of traditional drums and the scent of jasmine will stay with you long after you leave.